Where the range meets the reef

Now we've been to some pretty beautiful places on this trip but our stop at the Cape Range National Park to see the Ningaloo Reef has left me in awe. We arrived after coming over the range and past the giant communications towers built by the US in 1963 to spy on Russia - an impressive site that had is wondering until we read the info signs at the lighthouse.

After an obligatory night in Exmouth to fuel and water up, we went on to the ranger's station where they give you the available camp options. The park is well looked after with camp spots spread along the coast so no one spot is over worked. We choose Kurrajong as no generators are allowed which normally gathers more like minded, solar inspired campers. And what a choice - BEAUTIFUL!

The spread-out campground is managed by volunteer campers who register you in/out and organise the cleanest drop toilets I've seen on the trip. Just over the dune is the beach and reef at your doorstep - a walk off the sand! And the reef is alive and flourishing! I've seen allot of reefs in my time and this one astounded me. Here is where I wish I could channel all my marine biologist friends to rattle off what we saw but it included heaps of colorful fish and loads of different corals - those are the technical terms ;-)

Different areas of the national park have different corals thus fish so we spent our days snorkeling a few. Oyster Stacks literally had piles of oyster rocks that when you dive under you see the really big fish. Then Turquoise Bay is a pristine white sandy beach that opens onto the reef where we found clown fish fluttering around their anemones. Osprey Bay had some great drop offs to peer under in addition to the tusk fish, parrot fish and angel fish that we saw at each location including just off our camp at Kurrajong. There were just so many fish and such a variety of coral - I came out of every snorkel with a giant smile!

We met some lovely campers at this spot that we're likely to see again as we all travel south. One couple came around after dark to rush us down to see the florescent shrimps rolling onto the beach and glowing - so cool. But we bid them farewell after five days to head on to Coral Bay. Matt did have a fish on the reef with a guy we met with a boat so we leave restocked with some beautiful yummy fish.

At Coral Bay, we got a camp spot at the caravan park right on the turquoise waters. Our first snorkel here reminded us how good we had it at Cape Range but now after a few more, we appreciate the differences of this reef (still Ningaloo). The coral is giant cauliflower plants and huge fields of stag. I've seen bottom feeders creeping along in a mass of thousands, a giant black and white spotted eel swimming between rock hides, turtles, shovel nose sharks, blue spotted rays, a lion fish, and schools of parrot fish!

The white sand levels off into the water slowly and then drops down to the reef, so you get this lovely shallow warm water before entering the deeper bit and amazing sunsets! Matt did have a fish on the outside of the snorkeling area and caught a gorgeous Tripletail Maori Wrasse - we decided too beautiful for eating and threw out back only to catch again but it leaves another day.

Slight issue with the truck's engine light coming on but all sorted (thanks Land Rover) and it meant another night's stay in Coral Bay and another snorkel - oh the tragedies we go through.

Big news (& the reason we came back into phone reception) is my sister and her husband welcomed Caleb Luke to the world and I wanted to Skype with the new guy! Such a cutie and my god daughter is an ace already at being a big sis.

Back to the gorge-ous

After making our way down the coast a bit, we went east to get to Karijini National Park. It was a hot ride into the desert but with promises of fresh water flowing in the gorges, we ventured on. What a site it was to see! We pried ourselves off sweaty seats to scale down this stunning gorge where we could see the waterfall below.

Dales Gorge was our campground and the location of our first hike back on the trip. We set out the next morning from the same waterfall and then down the gorge

to see the beautiful paperbarks and waterfalls cut by the wet season.

Circular Falls is the destination walking up tiered platforms to swim in a rounded arena of a pool that trickles water from the walls. From here, the trek goes back up the gorge to hike directly up the side and back along the ridge instead of the base. With the sun heating up and the shelter of the trees in the gorge, we opted to return the way we came - which also promised a lovely swim/shower at the end.

We had two nights at the camp before heading along to the other side of the park and the majority of the gorges. In a day, we packed in a hike through Weano

Gorge where you end at Handrail Pool which literally requires scaling down a handrail to descend into a pool in an amphitheatre room. The water seemed slightly less appealing than some we had passed on the way in so we returned back for swims in the moving water but enjoyed the ambience of this spectacular 'room'.

After lunch back at the trailhead and parking lot, we started for round two of the day and a more difficult level trek at Hancock Gorge. The increased level is due to the hike's requirement of getting wet and acting like a spider. This gorge narrows to a degree that water traverses the angled floors and you either walk with it or don't go. We were more than happy to get wet and even leave the camera behind for the last bit through Spider Walk to Kermit's Pool. Some places the water dipped just overhead but it was beautifully refreshing.

Trying to make headway before sunset, we hit the road to see which of the free camps we could get to by sunset. And what a beautiful time to be driving as the ranges

were perfectly lit and desert colours at their best. We quickly made it past Tom Price, a mining town, but not before stopping at a vista point that I thought could be our camp for the night. 'RIP Lookout' was just that - a stunning outlook that had become a memorial site where people had left stacks of rocks each signed off to a loved one lost. Campfires had been lit there but we decided to leave a rock each to our respective losses and move on.

We made it to Beasley River Camp where although the river was well and truly dry for the season, the camp had firepits, wood, a toilet, and even a picnic table. It seemed we had the place to ourselves for the night until a lone push bike strolled in from the opposite direction. Jett is a Dutch girl travelling from Perth to Darwin. Much respect goes to her as I thought I was tired from a long day on a hot road but she brings it to a whole other level. So a good night was had by all around the fire before a well earned sleep.

Next up - Exmouth and the Cape Range National Park, where the range meets the reef (Ningaloo).

Hooked but not caught

I'm not sure I'll ever understand the drive of a fisherman's will when it comes to a particular catch. In this case and at this time, it's barramundi. But strive for the catch we have with stays on the Pentecost River, Barred River, Cape Leveque, Willie Creek, and now the Fitzroy. I cannot say that I have not enjoyed all of it, because I have loved all these beautiful spots, but then I'm not the one with the rod in the water with the burning sun beating down.

I guess I just don't get it, especially because barramundi isn't even the tastiest fish you can catch in these parts. We have had some scrumptious meals on Matt's catches - queenfish, sweet lip, blue bone, trevally, cod and more than I can name but barrumumdi is a prized catch across all of Australia's top end.

Our latest side trip to a recommended locale on the Fitzroy River brought us closest to 'the catch'. Picture this - the sun was registering 40 degrees but felt like 43 Celsius with the hot winds blowing mini sand tornados through the dusty grounds. A man sits on the rocky outlet left from the old river crossing which long grew over except the wooden stumps across the river. Two rods hang in the water, one quivers with another tease of a catch so he winds it in and 'wham' out of the water jumps the unsuspecting barra!

He's caught it! But before he can reel it in, the cunning fish heads straight for the wooden bridge posts and tangles himself around the old bridge. Not only does he lose his chance of telling the story of his barra catch, he loses his last floater. The next day, we watch a floater tease its way around the river banks thinking maybe his barra is actually still connected. Till the next time, the barra lives on to tell his own story of how he caught another fisherman on the Fitzroy.

Fun fact #1 - barramundi all start out as males and switch to females in older age which is why the largest keep catch is 80cm. Hmm...
Fun fact #2 - catfish spines are very painful but soaked in hot water for half hour helps pull the poison out.

There's no place like home

Only 3 weeks ago, I sat in this very same campground in Broome preparing for a holiday from our holiday. We're back now and it all feels like a dream. We had a night in Sydney with wonderful friends, Silvia and Ivan, who prepared an early birthday celebration for me complete with a visit from newly PhD doctored Ed. Then a breakfast catch up at Claudette and Brad's new place before back to the airport for our international flight.

There's no place like home! Arriving in Florida after the long journey, Mum had homemade gazpacho and bagels ready for us before collapsing to sleep. We had a busy schedule at the homefront which

kicked off with a visit from my sister and gorgeous niece, Sofia, then deep sea fishing,  weekend parties, Matt's first baseball game (go the Rays!), before we took off for a side trip to New Orleans.

NAWLINS- loved it! I haven't been since I was a child and I can assure you although the beauty of this city is probably much the same, the experience in drinking age is a whole

other ball game. We stayed at a great boutique hotel, The Frenchman, in the heart of jazz clubs and walking distance throughout the French Quarter. With only two days, we covered the quarter, sunset on the Mississippi, the obligatory Bourbon Street, soul food, po boys, the Garden District, and great music!

Back to Florida with more food to eat and festivities to enjoy, we reveled in home cooking and family catch ups. It was tough to leave, especially as my sister, Megan, is expecting my second niece or nephew in less than a month and Sofia is too cute in her calls of "Tata". But alas, off we were for a journey that was already too long at 32 hours and became one of nearly 50 thanks to strong tradewinds and a required stop in Auckland to refuel. So after Tampa to Dallas to Auckland to Brisbane to Sydney to Perth, Qantas did put us up in the Hyatt before our final flight to Broome.

Ahh, it only took us a day and we were relaxing on the turquoise waters of Willie Creek and Matt was getting his first catch on the new equipment. Bring on the second half of our Oz Adventure!

Beauty at the tip

Although we reached the west coast ages ago (in travel time), we got stationary for awhile as we are waiting for our flight out of Broome to the States. Between Barred Creek and Broome, we were killing time.

Back in Broome for a water fill up and proper shower, we ended up camping directly across from our mate, Rob, last seen in Noosa. After a couple fishing days, pub nights and the Staircase to the Moon event, Rob was heading south and we still had a couple weeks so further north we came.

What a brilliant decision! The Dampier Peninsula is stunning with the red cliffs meeting the blue waters - a bit like Quangdong Point but even more spectacular! We spent 3 nights at Kooljaman Camp at Cape Leveque then further along to near Bardi (One Arm Point) at a camp called, Gumbarnum. It's all aboriginal land here run by the Bardi people.

Matt has been filling his spare time with fishing and pulled a black tip reef shark, Queenie, and Blue bone all from just off the beach but it was the Queenie we got to keep. One of the campers suggested we cut it up for numus - soaked in vinegar, lime and black pepper. It's a bit like cerviche and delicious! He's back at it again so we'll see what's on the menu next. I keep complaining that we have stocks of good meat that needs to be eaten before we leave but one can't really complain about fresh fish!

The whales are the other amazing sight in these parts - every look out to sea gives you at least a catch of a blow hole if not the full jump and splash. And all of this can be seen from my bed in the camper! There's sunrise from one side of the point then sunset from the other - all walking distance.

The camp here feels like a Caribbean island with the clear waters and sand bars. I do still have one eye out for crocs. This area is supposed to have some friendly lemon sharks but still not sure I want to see them while I'm having a dip.

A couple nights here and we may leave to start our trek back to Broome but there's no rush, we have a week...

Reached the blue azure

When the day's activities start and end by watching the sun rise and set, with a mix of firewood collection, meals, and a swim in between, life's pretty good indeed! We reached the end of the Gibb in Derby on 8 August and refueled at the pub before a stock up night in Broome where we then headed north up the coast to Quandong Point, aka by me, "beauty by the sea". Yes, we have reached the west coast and its beautiful blue waters! The azure colour against the straw fields and red dirt - AMAZING!

Bliss was interupted by nature's tragedy when one of the nearby campers drove up to ask if we had buckets and wanted to help out a beached whale. We swung into action throwing dirty laundry and collected wash water out of our two buckets to race down the beach's end to help out. Unfortunately we were too late and the hour that the beautiful giant had lasted on the shore was too much.

We had just been watching in amazement the pod of humpbacks breeching off the shore and this particular one steered, for whatever reason, too close to the shore. It was incredibly sad to see when I had hoped to be part of a grand rescue, but nature has its ways. We went back today to see what was left and it had rolled slighty but was still there less the chunks bitten out of it. Even as we stood on the shore, a shark came 1 metre from the beach trying to get a bite! Then we noticed a few more circling and having their turn. They were tiger sharks and big ones. One must have got in the way as it was also beached with both sides taken out of it - survival of the fittest and this dead shark was 2.5 metres!

I think we are getting what we have coined, "Treach Syndrome", when we sit too long in one place in deep relaxation. It ultimately makes us spring back in motion. The term came about after our stay in Treachery Beach near Seal Rocks. So it looks we'll head back to Broome for a water refill and maybe stay for Race Day if I can find a suitable hat and frock packed away (although not sure Matt brought a suit) then up to Cape Leveque. We have another couple weeks around this area till we fly back to the States for my birthday with the fam.

FOOD! What are we eating these days? Curry in our camp oven on the fire is a fav (last night was broccoli & chicken green curry) and for lunch, we whipped up two pizzas - ham & pineapple as well as salami, feta, & capsicum. We also used the lazy day to bake a banana bread from the frozen bananas we've had since QLD. YUM!

Friends along the way-  travelling is such a great way to meet wonderful people from all walks of life! For those that I've met since Darwin, unfortunately my phone cacked it so please contact me on Facebook - Tara Toohill.

Gibb's a highway, Munja's a track

All this I have been stressing over the famous Gibb River Road, but it's practically a highway now. To compensate for the lack of adventure on the Gibb, we found a few extra tracks to try - Karunjie and Munja! The former just a walk in the park compared to the latter but both extremely enjoyable (I can say that only now that I'm safely off both).

Karunjie starts from just outside of Wyndham and is an old stock route that runs between the Cockburn Ranges and the Pentecost River. The last update gave the details on that beautiful track and days along the river. This entry is dedicated to the Munja Track and the highlights of the Gibb River Road. The Munja runs from outside Mt Elizabeth Station to the Walcott Inlet and got some recent fame when a 4wd show came to film some footage along its varied course. Without my usual research on the track (due to lack of internet reception) and the fact that it was an in & out track, I fought Matt on taking it but to no use, he was fixated.

When they say "rough" track, they mean it! But we had bush camps by river sides all to ourselves and the pure beauty of the Kimberleys we had been missing. Matt has loaded a few videos on Facebook and you'll

notice I walked many of those extreme bits including the return on Magpie's Jump Up. We even managed to bust (temporarily) another of our camper legs on one of the steep river crossings but the group behind us, had to winch their mate's vehicle out. Finding a waterfall all to ourselves with some amazing Aboriginal artwork and I quickly forgot about the stress of the track. I did do a deep creek crossing and jump out of my own to better understand Albert's capabilities - he was built to do this kind of travel.

After four days exploring the Munja, we were back on the busy Gibb but still managed a couple solo bush camps along the way before staying at both the Silent Grove and Windjana National Parks in the King Leopold Conservation Park. Bell Gorge from Silent Grove NP was an awe inspiring gorge with a beautiful swimming hole after a hike down the boulder rock ledge. The cliffs were typical Kimberley with strata layers of

block red rock. Then Windjana was such a different gorge cliff with black drip castle type rock formations made from when the area was an old reef system. Add in the hundreds of fresh water crocs that are trapped for the season, and you DON'T have a waterhole to swim in.

In all, the Gibb experience did give us what we were looking

for in this area - beauty that will not soon be forgotten and is already missed now that we a back on the straight road to Broome.